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Lawn care tips and FAQs to improve the
health and look of your lawn

Watering Tips

Watering these are general guidelines, as many factors will influence amount and frequency of watering.

  • Infrequent, heavier watering is the general rule. This encourages deeper root growth, less weed activity, and a better ability to fend of drought and disease ( frequent, light irrigation encourages weed seed germination and makes your lawn more prone to insect and disease problems )

  • Water 2-3 times per week. Sandy loam soils may require more frequency.

  • Clay loam soils may require less frequency

  • Provide at least ½ to 1 inch of water at each watering. This can be measured by placing an empty container on the lawn and seeing how long it takes to fill that container with at least ½ to 1 inch of water, then watering each area of lawn that same amount of time

  • AVOID watering after 6 PM many lawn diseases are associated with this practice. It is especially damaging in conditions of high humidity and nighttime temperatures greater than 68 degrees F.

  • The BEST time to water is between 4 AM – 10 AM. During very hot, dry days, your lawn may also benefit from an additional watering at mid day, 12 PM – 2 PM.

Mowing tips

  • Height - cool season grass varieties found here in Connecticut should be cut to a height of 2 ½ - 3 inches. This will discourage weed seed germination and help establish a deeper root system.

  • Frequency - this may vary. The key is to not cut any more than 1/3 of the grass blade at any one cutting. If the grass is seriously overgrown, break it down by mowing 2 – 3 times ( 2-3 days apart ) to return the grass to a proper height.

  • Clippings - when mowing only 1/3 of leaf blade at a time, you can safely leave clippings in the lawn. Contrary to popular opinion, grass clippings do not add to thatch build-up. In fact, clippings return valuable nutrients and water back to the soil

  • Blades - make sure you are mowing with sharp blades. This will ensure a clean cut. Dull blades tear the leaf, allowing better chance for a disease pathogen to enter.

  • Wet Grass - try to avoid mowing when grass is wet. Disease pathogens, if present, can get picked up on the mower blades and spread to other areas of the lawn.

Frequently Asked Questions

Below are some common questions and answers that we often receive. They should be considered as general information and may not apply to all situations. We encourage you to ask one of our trained lawn technicians or call the office during regular business hours if you have a special problem. We'll be more than happy to discuss possible solutions specifically designed to address your situation.

Q: What is a pre-emergent application?

A: Pre-emergent applications, put down a microscopic layer on the soil that prevents many seeds from sprouting, including crabgrass. This invisible shield is usually put down in early spring before the soil temperature reaches 55-60 degrees.

Q: I want to plant new grass seed this spring. Can I plant seeds after this treatment, but before the crabgrass begins to grow?

A: No. The pre-emergent will also stop desired grass from growing also. It is generally better to wait until the fall to plant new grass seed after a pre-emergent application has been put down. However, there are some special situations that we can help you with. Please call our office to discuss your situation.

Q: What is slow release fertilizer and what are the advantages of using it over other lawn fertilizers?

A: Slow release fertilizers are actually microscopic coated capsules of fertilizer that breakdown and release their important fertilizer and trace elements over a long period of time. This ensures that your lawn's root system gets those nutrients in measured doses that won't over-stimulate the plants into a sudden growing spurt requiring more mowing.

pH metering

Q: What is a "lime" treatment and what will it do for me?

A: Lime is actually a term used for limestone, which is a naturally occurring compound of magnesium and calcium that can be applied to the lawn to help balance the soil's pH so that it is more conducive for turf grasses to thrive. Included in a lime treatment is also a calcium supplement. Lime naturally helps control the acidity in top soil. To get the full benefit of readily available food to your lawn, the top soil must have the optimum pH level. If the pH level is too low, the soil is not able to break down the nutrients in the soil and makes it more difficult for your turf grass to absorb those nutrients. Some soils may require more than one treatment per season. Our lawn technicians will be able to give you an accurate assessment of your soil's condition.

Grubs Japanese Beetle

Q: What are grubs and why should I worry about them?

A: Grubs are actually the larval stage of a variety of different kinds of beetles, including May and June bugs and voracious Japanese beetles. Adult beetles lay their eggs in the soil in mid to late summer. As the eggs hatch, they develop into the white-wormish looking larvae. As the larvae grow, they work their way down to the root zone of your lawn where they eat the roots. Usually in early fall you'll suddenly notice dead patches of lawn start showing up in your lawn if you have grubs. By this time, it is too late to effectively treat for them and they will begin the process again. Grub control is largely a matter of timing so that they can be controlled in their early stages of development and before they go deep into the soil and go dormant for the winter.

 

If you have a question about your lawn or landscape, please call our office and one of our technicians will stop by to give you a free, no-obligation evaluation of your lawn and how it could be improved with a Talcott Mountain Lawn & Tree Care.